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Extra resources for Islamic Designs
National UK statistics of the 1930s indicate that every other man in the population had a suit made every two years. It is likely that women called upon their tailors even more often, to have their ‘costumes’ made (as suits were called back then). In addition most women knew how to sew; if they had not learned sewing at school they would have been taught by their mothers and often showed considerable skill in manufacturing dresses and basic tailoring for themselves, as well as clothing their children.
A seam joins two or more layers of fabric and may perform the following functions: temporary joining of materials (as in basting); control of fullness; protective, so as to prevent fabric from fraying; permanent joining of materials; and for decorative purposes. When a material joins another material, it can either be a raw or folded edge. Joining two raw edges is possible in very thick materials (this is called ‘stoating’), but more commonly one raw edge gets joined to another material, for example a men’s under collar joined to the neckline.
Ladies’ jackets and coats then became more structured and fitted again; the styling (collar and lapels) as well as the fabrics resembled the men’s jacket and has done ever since. Although tailored trousers were already worn by some women in the 1930s – Marlene Dietrich famously had her suits made by gents’ tailors, including Savile Row’s Anderson & Shepperd – this was the exception and seen as film-star eccentricity. Trousers were reserved for beachwear. Ladies’ fashions. The mid 1930s can be seen as the birth of what is considered now ‘the classic suit’, both for men and women.